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Biko

Mexico City, Polanco

%

Overall Rating

  • Ambience 70%
  • Service 90%
  • Food (Execution) 50%
  • Creativity 70%
  • Value 50%

Details for Location Reviewed
Biko

Locale: Mexico City, Polanco
Address: Presidente Masaryk 407

Telephone: +52 55 5282 2064
Restaurant Type: Formal Dining, Upscale Casual
Cuisine: Eclectic Gourmet, Spanish
Service Type: Table Service
Price: $$$$ Menu items offered: Grilled Steaks, Salads, Soups
Hours: Mon-Sat: 1:30 pm to 11 pm Sun: Closed

Restaurant Details
Biko

Locale: Mexico City, Polanco
Address: Presidente Masaryk 407

Telephone: +52 55 5282 2064
Restaurant Type: Formal Dining, Upscale Casual
Cuisine: Eclectic Gourmet, Spanish
Service Type: Table Service
Price: $$$$ Menu items offered: Grilled Steaks, Salads, Soups
Hours: Mon-Sat: 1:30 pm to 11 pm Sun: Closed

Summary of Review

Highly praised restaurant in Polanco offering eclectic gourmet cuisine with Basque influence. A la carte menu or seven course tasting menu for about US$60. A disappointment. One dish was nearly inedible. Monotonous decor and overpriced. We added this one to our list of most overrated restaurants in Mexico City.

Summary of Review

Highly praised restaurant in Polanco offering eclectic gourmet cuisine with Basque influence. A la carte menu or seven course tasting menu for about US$60. A disappointment. One dish was nearly inedible. Monotonous decor and overpriced. We added this one to our list of most overrated restaurants in Mexico City.

Restaurant Review for Biko

 

Review by: Ollie O
Rating: 3.3 stars
Review Date: 09/10/2016

Biko is another acclaimed restaurant that earned a Top-10 spot on Restaurant Magazine’s list of the 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America that shouldn’t even be listed as one of the Top-10 restaurants in Polanco. It garners a 4.5 stars on Google Reviews. Was I eating at the same restaurant that received those accolades? In the words of my dining partner, the taco I had on the street today was more satisfying than this.

Allow me to set the stage. Dinner on Saturday night at 8:30 p.m. Supposedly, a difficult reservation to get. The restaurant was 2/3 empty (or 1/3 full, if you’re an optimist, which I’m not). I’m dining with a restaurant enthusiast who’s a vegetarian, an employee of The World Bank who has eaten at acclaimed restaurants throughout the world.

Me? I’m just Ollie O. But I know what tastes good and know when something is ugly.

Biko has monotone beige walls and expensive brown wood paneling. Beige chairs. Brown leather banquets. No artwork or decoration of any type. Not even a lonely vase full of white lilies. Perhaps if lilies came in beige we’d have seen some. It wasn’t in bad taste as was the décor in Dulce Patria across the street. It was just extremely mundane and sterile.

The restaurant offers a seven course tasting menu for about US$60 (1,100 pesos). It's about US$110 (2,100 pesos) with wine pairing. The a la carte menu is divided into three sections. One is "modern" cuisine, one is traditional Spanish (Basque) cuisine with Mexican overtones, and the third section is desserts.

We ordered three vegetarian dishes from the “modern” section of the menu which has food with little or no connection to traditional Mexican cuisine. Also, a meat dish and one fish dish.

The opening one-bite teasers, graciously offered by the chef, in both a vegetarian and non-vegetarian version, were both outstanding in taste and presentation. That little bite that looks like a pine cone was tapioca converted to something crisp filled underneath with what I think was a puree of sea urchin.

Things went downhill from there. A mushroom patty sitting in a broth which was tasteless. In the words of my dining partner. “It tastes like a veggie burger patty sitting in soup.” I had ordered duck, ham and melon. I was expecting a slice of duck breast and some melt-in-your-mouth ham, barely complimented by the melon, to bring out the beauty of the two proteins. What arrived was a bird’s nest of crispy little noodles covering about three small slivers of what I suppose was duck and ham in a very sweet sauce. This would almost qualify as a dessert. It was that sweet without any counter-balancing with citrus or heat.

The next course was a corn soup. Not what we were expecting. I won’t provide details about the comments that were made about the appearance of the dish. Use your imagination and you’ll likely know what those comments were. Needless to say, the appearance was not appetizing. That said, the broth was flavorful. But it’s hard to overcome that initial impression.

Next up was what could best be described as an artichoke paella. Simply stated, the rice was burned on top. Not just crisp, which was clearly the intention of the chef, but burnt. My companion ate two bites and set it aside.

The final dish was a fish dish. A white flaky fish cooked perfectly, adorned with a variety of supporting characters and sitting in a tomato broth. The dish was plated beautifully. Although technically prepared correctly, it was a bit bland and flavorless. Not a bad dish. Just not a really good one.

I almost always order a dessert to put the restaurant’s pastry chef to the test. But after a collection of disappointing savory dishes what was the point? It’s not likely you’re going to go the Biko for a dessert and cup of coffee.

I regret to say that due to the prior positive propaganda this restaurant has received we’re forced to add it, along with two others added within the previous ten days, to our list of most overrated restaurants in Mexico City and in Latin America.

An embarrassing showing for these chefs and their kitchen staff.

Prices were about as expected but considering one course was nearly inedible and the others weren’t worth the effort we can’t say the restaurant was a value. The only saving grace was a rather stellar performance in the service category. But that’s not enough to make up for the shortcomings in the kitchen.

We always provide a brief summary of our dining experience at a restaurant. We think the words of Denzil Luis on Google Reviews, who visited Biko just a week before our visit aptly sums it up. He states, “Absolute let down, food was tasteless. Tense, unenjoyable atmosphere. And extremely overpriced.” We’ll use his words for our summary.

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